Oil Change

Contents 1 Overview 1.1 Instructions 1.2 Oil Chart 1.3 Viscosity 1.4 Torque Specifications 1.5 Synthetic .vs Conventional 1.6 Sludge

Overview

Changing oil is a very straight forward procedure.

Instructions

• Run the car for 5 minutes to warm up the oil
• Jack up the car, install jack stands
• Get drain pan and position it under the drain bolt located on passenger side of the oil pan
• Slowly unscrew the drain bolt and let the oil drain into the pan
• Unscrew the oil filter housing (this will relieve the system pressure allowing oil to flow out at a greater force)
• Remove the filter and gasket from the oil filter cover (round rubber strip)
• After 5-10 minutes as oil starts to drip, jack down the car and jack up the rear of the car to get all of the oil out
• Go back and jack the front up, secure with jack stands
• Use new washer for oil pan bolt and tighten it. You may lower the car now.
• Open engine oil cover and pour 8 US QT of oil of your choice, close the oil cover.
• Install new filter (coat it in oil) and replace rubber gasket in the cover and just put it on top then tighten the cover
• Start the car and let it warm up, inspect oil pan/filter housing for leaks before driving

Oil Chart

Viscosity

Cold: 5W-30 Mild: 10W-30 Warm / Hot: 15W-50

Torque Specifications

• M22 bolt for oil pan: 60 Nm (44 ft-lb)
• Oil filter housing cover: 25 Nm (18 ft-lb)

Synthetic .vs Conventional

There is a lot of debate on this subject. If your engine is old and worn try running a thicker synthetic oil before trying conventional. If your engine is healthy using proper Synthetic oil will always provide a superior lubrication and friction protection.

Sludge

If you observed engine sludge, prior to oil change open engine oil cap and pour 1/4 of standard SeaFoam can then run the engine for 5 minutes at idle followed by slight 1-3K RPM revs. Shut the car off and continue with your oil change.